How did you come across the Bukit Chuping site?
Initially, we had bought the land for a housing project. Due to some reason, the development was called off. We didn’t know what to do with the land until a lawyer friend of mine suggested: “Grow Harumanis, the icon of Perlis”. The rest, as the saying goes, is history. Currently, we have 1,300 trees on a 23-acre farm. We plan to acquire more land in Perlis suitable for premium-grade Harumanis. We also hope the state and federal governments could provide more incentives to encourage private companies to grow more local fruits.
Tell us a little bit about the Harumanis varietal.
I have to say that this is the hardest mango to cultivate and also the most expensive mango in the country. Usually, it takes three to four years for the trees to mature, after which they can bear fruit for up to 30 years. Current market prices of Harumanis range from RM30 to RM70 per kilo depending on the quality, but the costs involved are tremendous: from irrigation to fertilisation, pruning and clearing [the land] … not to mention the additional work during the flowering and harvest seasons.
We have to wrap every single mango by hand with paper and the time to wrap the fruits is also crucial. Wrap too early, the mango won’t grow properly. Wrap too late and the mango might be eaten by monkeys. During harvest season, we need to guard the farm 24 hours a day for fear of theft. I must add that Harumango only employs local farmers to work at our farm.
How is Harumanis best enjoyed?
Harumanis is best enjoyed within three to five days after picking or harvesting. Usually, the skin of Harumanis remains green, but it’s ripe inside already. The best way to determine if it’s ripe is to have a good sniff. If the aroma is there and the texture is slightly soft, it’s time to dig in! Harumango also offers Harumanis puree made from Grade B fruits. This can then be made into Harumanis jam, ice cream and cheese cake. Seasoned Harumanis connoisseurs have their own of savouring the fruit, but for me, the best way to enjoy Harumanis is to eat it plain, using your hands.
Tell us a little about yourself. There’s more to your portfolio than just mangoes.
My family has been involved in property for more than 20 years, under the Encomas group of companies. Now, we have diversified into agriculture by growing premium grade Harumanis. F&B is another story, with our Caffè Diem outlets in Alor Setar and soon in Jejawi, Perlis, with more to come in the pipeline.
For the first-time visitor to Alor Setar, what are your top recommendations to see, do and eat?
My 24-hour itinerary includes breakfast at the famous (and halal) Lai Huat Curry Mee before visiting the paddy museum nearby. Kedahans are famously friendly and the farmers won’t mind you visiting their fields. I would suggest lunch at Manzur Capati for freshly-made, pan-hot breads next to Masjid Nagore, after which you can walk it off around Medan Bandar, visiting the old palace and the iconic Masjid Zahir, ranked the sixth-most beautiful mosque in the world. You could also walk to Pekan Melayu, where Tun Mahathir’s clinic is located.
You must, of course, then have a caffeine jolt at Caffè Diem and [its sister outlet] Diem Bakery in Pekan Cina, which is parallel to Pekan Melayu, our heritage enclave along Sungai Anak Bukit. Try our signature Coconut Cream Latte paired with a slice of Lemon Poppy Seed Cake, the favourite of our late Agong. Have dinner at Hai Kee, an 80-year-old Hainanese restaurant, or Nasi Lemak Haji Ali for addictive ayam goreng. Stay overnight at Hotel 38PC, which has a lovely rooftop pool with a view.
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